Before moving to Fritchley 20 years ago, I had very little experience of a “real” fire…now I wouldn’t be without one. Nothing beats it during the colder seasons. However, if you have a log burner you will need a log store. If you buy freshly cut (green) logs, they ideally need storing for 12 months so that they dry out before you burn them. This gives better burning efficiency.
I build bespoke (made to measure) log stores to fit the space you have available. I use tannelised (pre-treated) wood and a design that allows good air flow so the logs dry thoroughly. The roof is an OSB panel which is covered with a heavy-weight roof felt; the felt is both glued and nailed down. I also use a large overhang on the roof. As the water runs off the roof this means it drips away from, rather than onto, the logs in the store. I finish off the roof with wood trims as it looks so much neater. The roof can be designed to slope either to the front or the back to suit your site. To make the log store look more decorative I can finish the sides with wooden shingles… this definitely improves the look if you can see the log store from the house.
The majority of the log stores I make are self-standing on 3”x3” leg supports. Whilst most logs tend to be about 10” long (a typical size to fit a log burner), this depth is too narrow for a log store – if it gets too high the store will get too heavy and simply fall over. My stores are deeper and will usually hold 2-3 banks of logs. You’ll be able to store enough logs to last you all winter!
If you want a long life from your garden furniture you need to treat it – especially if it lives outdoors all year round during the winter weather.
My wood treatment of choice is the Barretine Premier Wood Preservative. This is available in a range of colours to suit both your taste and garden and is an all-in-one, spirit-based wood preserver for the treatment and prevention of dry rot, fungi, mold and protection against woodworm. I will typically apply two coats of this to wooden garden furniture and then finish the treatment with two coats of outdoor furniture oil. This sort of treatment allows the wood to breathe and means that any damp does not get “locked in”.
I treat garden furniture off site. My first job is to dismantle the furniture as far as possible and sand and treat the different sections –it just gives a better coverage and finish. Once the furniture has been reassembled, I will return it to your garden. If the furniture has metal sections I can also arrange for these to be treated locally. The metal is stripped (sand blasted) and powder coated….. and looks a hundred times better when it is done. It is also possible to have a zinc paint undercoat before the final powder finish. This will further slow the rusting process and help your furniture to last longer.
A leaking shed roof is bad news – not only for anything you may be storing in it, but also for the shed itself (any damp will affect the floor and walls too). Just like a fence, the two main enemies for a shed roof are the wind and rot.
My first step when asked to re-felt a shed roof is to establish how far the damage has gone. If the roof is an OSB board and has been very wet, it is likely that the roof will also need to be replaced – if this is the case I will always advise you of this need. A tongue and groove board roof often survives better and it is possible to go straight to the re-felting process.
In the re-felting process, I remove the old felt and replace with a new, heavy-weight felt. I prefer to fix the new felt with both adhesive and nails as it gives a better seal. This also helps to prevent the wind getting under the joins and lifting the felt again….. and this is important as we seem to live in a particularly windy area!
To finish the job, I replace the trims (using new ones if they have gone beyond repair) which makes the roof look better and gives a further seal to the edges. After that, your shed is water-tight and ready to go!